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Apple pie should be eaten “while it is yet florescent, white or creamy yellow, with the merest drip of candied juice along the edges (as if the flavor were so good to itself that its own lips watered!), of a mild and modest warmth, the sugar suggesting jelly, yet not jellied, the morsels of apple neither dissolved nor yet in original substance, but hanging as it were in a trance between the spirit and the flesh of applehood … then, O blessed man, favored by all the divinities! Eat, give thanks, and go forth, ‘in apple-pie order!'”

— Rev. Henry Ward Beecher

DO NOT be put off from making apple pie out of fear of a bad crust. While it takes some practice to make a truly great crust, chances are your audience for fresh apple pie will be forgiving of your early efforts to master the art, even if just as a flavorful way to hold the filling. Like most things, pastry making gets better with experience, so forge on!

Here are two different styles of pie crust. “Dense and Delicious Whole Wheat Oil Pastry Crust” is healthier but harder to roll out than “Rich Pie Crust,” which is why wax paper is recommended.

Andrea Darrow of Green Mountain Orchards in Putney, Vermont, further explains the basics of good dough making in the video below, “Making A Perfect Pie Crust.”

Rich Pie Crust

makes 1 crust

1-1/4 c flour (may be half whole wheat)

1/4 t salt

1/2 c butter, cold and cut up into small pieces

1/4 c ice-cold water (or 2 T water plus 1 egg yolk)

Dense and Delicious Whole Wheat Oil Pastry Crust

makes 2 crusts

2-1/2 c whole wheat flour

1 t salt

1/2 c vegetable oil

1/2 c ice-cold water or better, milk

Measure dry ingredients into a bowl. Combine oil and water/milk in a small bowl and pour all at once into the flour. Mix the dough, divide it in half, wrap two flattened balls in plastic wrap, then chill for about 10 minutes. Roll out either on a floured surface or between waxed paper.

“Good apple pies are a considerable part of our domestic happiness.”

Jane Austen

Macoun apple (Bar Lois Weeks photo)

Macoun apple (Bar Lois Weeks photo)

Here are two good choices among the many outstanding pie apples:

Many people consider Macoun the best fresh-eating apple, but it is also outstanding in pies. Macouns are esteemed by apple connoisseurs for their crispy, juicy flesh and rich, complex flavors that hint of strawberry and spices. Macouns do not store well compared to many varieties, making them in great demand during harvest in mid-September.

Named after a Canadian pomologist, this variety is pronounced as if spelled “MacCowan.” It was developed in Canada in the early 1900s, the offspring of McIntosh and Jersey Black, an American heirloom apple once known as Black Apple due to its dark color.

Northern Spy apple (Bar Lois Weeks photo)

Northern Spy apple (Bar Lois Weeks photo)

Another popular choice for pies is the heirloom variety Northern Spy, a larger than average apple with a deep red skin with red striping. It has a strong, sweet flavor and crisp texture. Northern Spy are good for fresh eating, drying, and juice, as well as in pies.

The first seed of Northern Spy came from Salisbury, Connecticut around 1800, and it was first grown by H. Chapin of East Bloomfield, New York. Introduced commercially in 1840, it quickly became a success, especially in the Northeast and Canada. It is a mid-season apple; harvest typically begins in late September or early October.

“To a foreigner a Yankee is an American. To an American a Yankee is a Northerner. To a Northerner a Yankee is a New Englander. To a New Englander a Yankee is a Vermonter. To a Vermonter a Yankee is a person who eats apple pie for breakfast.”

—   Traditional

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WHAT IS the best pie apple? There are several schools of thought on this.

Some people have their absolute favorites, and will go the extra mile to obtain them. More than one baker dispatched their adult child on a pilgrimage to our booth in the Massachusetts Building at the Eastern States Exposition in September when word got out that we were in possession of some Red Gravensteins. These emissaries purchased a bagful of these hard-to-find heirloom apples to fashion into a pie made exclusively with them. Similarly, we know of several sage bakers who insist that there is no better pie apple than Northern Spy, another heirloom.

Then there is the mix-and-match strategy (one we favor), where you combine a few apples each of several varieties to produce a pie rich in texture (with varieties like Cortland or Honeycrisp) and flavor (such as McIntosh and Empire). Using this method, you can experiment until you find just the right blend of sweet and tart to please your palate. Texture, too, is subjective; some like a mushy pie, while others prefer that their fork meets some resistance.

Perhaps food writer Ken Haedrich put it best in his 2002 book Apple Pie Perfect (Harvard Common Press): “Don’t worry so much about variety. Just get to know your apples and start making pies. The fact is, I’ve met very few apples in my lifetime that I couldn’t make into a respectable pie.”

Apple pie production is in high gear at Lyman Orchards in Middlefield, Connecticut. (Bar Lois Weeks photo)

Apple pie production is in high gear at Lyman Orchards in Middlefield, Connecticut. (Bar Lois Weeks photo)

However you approach it, we are now entering a peak period for pies heading into the holiday season. We’ll be presenting a different apple pie recipe for each of the next three weeks leading up to Thanksgiving, accompanied by videos featuring Andrea Darrow of Green Mountain Orchards in Putney, Vermont, who takes you step-by-step through her pie-making process. In Part 1 of the series, Andrea prepares apples for the pie filling. She makes hundreds of pies a year for the orchard’s farm stand, and she peels the apples by hand for every single one of them.

One of my sisters-in-law brought this pie to Thanksgiving dinner in 1983, and it has been a family favorite ever since. It calls for baking mix (aka Bisquick) in two places, but you can easily substitute this homemade version instead. Mix together:

1-1/2 c whole wheat flour

2-1/4 t baking powder

1/2 t salt

2 T butter

Impossible French Apple Pie

In a large bowl, combine and turn into greased deep-dish pie plate:

6 c sliced New England apples

1-1/4 t cinnamon

1/4 t nutmeg

In medium bowl, beat until smooth, and pour over apples:

1/2 c sugar

3/4 c milk

1/2 c baking mix

2 eggs

2 T softened butter

In medium bowl, mix streusel topping, and sprinkle over pie:

1 c baking mix

1/2 c chopped walnuts

1/3 c brown sugar

3 T butter

Bake at 325˚ for 1 hour.

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ONE OF THE BEST THINGS about apples is their versatility. They can be served at any meal, in any course, cooked or uncooked, in combination with countless other foods. Apples are the perfect snack, too: sweet but healthy, easy to eat and carry in a pocket or hold in your hand.

Apples can be both sweet and tart, and their flavor and texture change when cooked. As a result, they can be combined to great effect with foods as disparate as cheddar cheese and raisins, eggs and pork, sugar and mayonnaise.

There’s no bad time, or way, to eat an apple. One place to test out this assertion is with sandwiches. There are all kinds of variations that include the crunch and flavor of apple with a favorite ingredient of choice. One simple sandwich is to replace the jelly in a PBJ with slices of fresh apple, such as McIntosh or Empire. Add a handful of dried cranberries or a drizzle of honey or maple syrup for a twist.

The other day Chris Weeks of Hatfield, Massachusetts, opened a can of tuna fish, and when he went to the fridge looking for mayo, he couldn’t find any. Instead he found a jar of applesauce, and stirred it into the tuna, adding a few fresh Cortland chunks. The result was decidedly different, but pleasing.

A day later he found a Fuji and tuna sandwich in the deli at a local grocery. It included lettuce, mayo, and tomato, but otherwise seemed identical to his ad lib.

Chris keeps experimenting, and has developed a great new variation on grilled cheese. We include it here with another favorite of ours, an open-faced broiled sandwich that is easy to make. It admirably demonstrates how apples can combine with unusual ingredients to take the ordinary to new culinary heights.

Apple Pie Grilled Cheese

THIS UNIQUE SPIN on a pair of classic comfort foods combines the warmth of a New England apple pie — complete with Cheddar cheese! — with the youthful exuberance of French toast. The result is a sweet and savory grilled cheese bursting with warm, gooey New England apples and sharp Cheddar cheese. There is no shame in using a fork and knife on this one!

Filling:

1 New England pie apple, such as Cortland or McIntosh

1 T cinnamon-sugar

1 T butter

Bread:

4 slices whole wheat bread

1 egg

1 T milk

1 T cinnamon-sugar

Extra-sharp Cheddar cheese, sliced

Core and thinly slice apple. In skillet, sauté apples in butter over medium heat until medium-soft, about 2 minutes. Remove from skillet, sprinkle with 1 T cinnamon-sugar, and set aside.

In shallow bowl or pie plate, whip egg, milk, and 1 T cinnamon-sugar. Dunk bread into egg mixture and add to skillet, browning both sides over medium heat. Arrange cheese on all four pieces of the toast.

Allow cheese to melt slightly before placing apple filling on two pieces of the toast. Top with remaining pieces of toast, slice in half, and serve hot.

Yield: 2 sandwiches

Apple-Cheddar Sandwich

1 New England apple, sliced thinly

2 slices sourdough or other whole-grain bread

2 oz Cheddar cheese

2 thin onion slices

Whole-grain mustard

Spread mustard on bread; top with apples, onion, and cheese. Briefly broil until cheese is bubbly.

* * *

Spencer apple (Bar Lois Weeks photo)

Spencer apple (Bar Lois Weeks photo)

A GREAT LATE-SEASON sandwich apple is Spencer. It’s a relatively new (1959) cross between McIntosh and Red Delicious. Spencers are crisp, juicy, and sweet, but less so than a Delicious. Nearly solid red in color, they are an outstanding apple for both fresh eating and culinary use. You won’t find them everywhere, but they are worth the search.

A more readily available choice for sandwiches is Fuji. Popularized in Japan and Washington state, it is grown in New England, so look for your local variety.

Fuji apple (Bar Lois Weeks photo)

Fuji apple (Bar Lois Weeks photo)

Fuji is a medium to large apple, with orange-red skin. Its flesh is firm, crisp, and juicy. Fujis are excellent eating apples, and good dried in slices. They also keep well, maintaining their quality for up to a year refrigerated or several weeks left in a fruit bowl. Fujis ripen in late October.

Fuji was developed in Japan in 1939, but it was given its name in 1962. Named for Japan’s tallest and most sacred mountain, Fuji is a cross between a Ralls Janet, an heirloom variety from Virginia, and Red Delicious.

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Mutsu (Crispin) apples on the tree at Brookfield Orchards, North Brookfield, Massachusetts. (Russell Steven Powell photo)

Mutsu (Crispin) apples on the tree at Brookfield Orchards, North Brookfield, Massachusetts. (Russell Steven Powell photo)

TRY THIS: go to your favorite orchard farm stand or nearby grocery store, and purchase a dozen New England apples. Choose at least four varieties.

Quarter the apples and put in a deep saucepan with 1 cup apple cider or water. Cook until soft. Put through a food mill. Applesauce. Presto.

Pure apple flavor, each batch a rare blend of sweet and tart resulting from the particular mix of varieties. No sugar needed. Maybe cinnamon (maybe not).

Take note of the varieties, flavor, texture, and color. Repeat, using different varieties.

* * *

Mutsu apples can range in color from green to yellow. (Bar Lois Weeks photo)

Mutsu apples can range in color from green to yellow. (Bar Lois Weeks photo)

One good variety to choose is Mutsu. They make outstanding sauce and cider. Also known as Crispin, Mutsus have a sweet, light flavor when cooked, and hold their shape well. An excellent dessert apple, they are also especially good in salads.

Mutsus are a late-season apple ranging in color from greenish to yellow, with an orange blush. Their firm, juicy flesh is creamy white to pale yellow. They can grow quite large (a pie made with Mutsus may require as few as three apples).

Mutsu has its origins in Japan, from a Golden Delicious crossed with an Indo, a Japanese seedling, in 1930. It was introduced in the United States in 1948.

* * *

Our three-part series on apple pie begins Wednesday, November 3.

* * *

To learn more about New England apple varieties, visit New England Apples.

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Westfield Seek-No-Further apple

Westfield Seek-No-Further apple

WHEN WAS THE LAST confirmed sighting of a Westfield Seek-No-Further? Has anyone seen a good Shamrock lately?

Westfield Seek-No-Further is an heirloom dessert apple, dating back to Westfield, Massachusetts, in the 1700s. It was a popular New England variety in the 1800s.

Shamrock is a green apple that originated in British Columbia less than 20 years ago. It is a tart apple, and works well with other varieties in pies and sauce.

We have descriptions and photographs (the Westfield Seek-No-Further taken from the classic work from 1905, The Apples of New York, the Shamrock source unknown) of both apples on our website, newenglandapples.org, but have not personally seen or tasted either.

Both, we believe, continue to be grown somewhere on New England soils. We just don’t know where. If you grow either Westfield Seek-No-Further or Shamrock, please let us know. We’d like to learn more, and get new photographs.

The photos, incidentally, are among more than 100 pictured on the New England Apple Association website. Most of the images are original photographs by Bar Lois Weeks. See New England apple varieties. We’re still writing and rewriting some of the descriptions. Perhaps you can help.

Tell us what you know about apples. We’d love to hear from you about this fascinating fruit: your favorite or hard-to-find varieties; recipes, new and handed down; horticulture; photographs and artwork. You can post your comments below or email them to info@newenglandapples.org.

(We have since found several sources for Westfield-Seek-No-Further and Shamrock, and have photographs of both apples.)

* * *

WE MET JUDY MATHER at the Sterling Fair September 12, and although she does not use a computer she was kind enough to handwrite a letter and send it with a pair of recipes as a follow-up to our conversation about apple crisp and New England apples.

She writes, “I’m still looking for the words to “Sippin’ cider through a straw.” (Using our computer, we found them at Sippin’ Cider, reprinted below.)

Mather’s apple crisp recipe is a family favorite passed down from Edith Crosby, her grandmother. Note the unusual egg in the topping.

Judy Mather’s Apple Crisp

Apples — pare (optional), core and slice thin McIntosh, Cortland, and Golden Delicious (or a mix ).

Place sliced apples in a 9” pie plate or casserole dish.

Spread over apples ½ c sugar and ½ t cinnamon.

Topping — 1 c sugar, 1 c. flour, 1 t baking powder, pinch of salt. Stir in 1 whole egg. Mix together and spread on top of apples.

Bake at 350° until top is a light “nut” brown and crunchy and apples are done —20-30 minutes approximately.

Mather, who lives in Sterling, sent this as well:

“This is a favorite apple recipe, also from my grandmother, Edith Crosby. I entered it in a cookbook back in the 1980s. It’s a great accompaniment to Thanksgiving dinner, to top hamburgers, etc. I also add it to ham salad.”

Old Fashioned Apple Chutney

24 Golden Delicious apples

4 green peppers

6 onions

4 T salt

1 c raisins

4 T white mustard seed

½ t cinnamon

½ t ground cloves

5 c vinegar

6 c brown sugar

Boil vinegar and sugar until clear. Chop apples, pepper and onions into small chunks and add to sugar/vinegar mixture. Add remaining ingredients. Simmer gently for 2 hours. Process in canning jars.

* * *

Sippin’ Cider

The prettiest girl I ever saw

Was sippin’ cider through a straw

I told that gal I didn’t see how

She sipped that cider through a straw

Then cheek to cheek and jaw to jaw

We sipped that cider through a straw

And now and then that straw would slip

And I’d sip some cider from her lip

And now I’ve got a mother-in-law

From sippin’ cider through a straw

The moral of this little tale

Is to sip your soda through a pail!

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WITH THIS FALL’S EARLY HARVEST, mid-season apples like Empire and Jonathan are already available at farm stands and stores. There will be plenty of apples throughout the fall, but if you want to pick your own, you should plan to go this weekend or next, at the latest, except for parts of northern New England (call the orchard to see what is being picked).

Empire apple (Bar Lois Weeks photo)

Empire apple (Bar Lois Weeks photo)

The Empire apple is a cross between McIntosh and Eastern Red Delicious. The result is a variety whose flavor is sweeter and less tart than a McIntosh. Empires have juicy, firm white flesh that does not easily bruise. They are high-quality dessert apples and good for all culinary uses. They have a deep red skin brushed with gold and green.

Empire is a newer variety, raised by R.D. Way in 1945, and introduced commercially in 1966 by the New York State Agricultural Experiment Station in Geneva, New York.

Jonathan apple (Bar Lois Weeks photo)

Jonathan apple (Bar Lois Weeks photo)

Jonathans are a popular cooking apple, with a spicy, tangy flavor. Their flesh is crisp and juicy, and they have a deep red skin. Applesauce made with Jonathans turns a rich pink from the brilliant red skin color.

Two cautionary notes about Jonathans are that they have a relatively short storage life, and they are not considered especially good for baked apples.

From Ulster County, New York, the Jonathan dates back to the mid-1800s, from an Esopus Spitzenburg seedling.

*            *            *

THIS RECIPE for “Juniper and Apple Soup” comes from Massachusetts native Bea Ruggles Dobyan, now living in Missouri, via Michigan (she found it at a Spice Merchants shop in Ann Arbor).

“It sounded different,” Bea writes, “and that’s the kind of cooking I like.” She will serve it as the first course at a dinner party this weekend, and says it is a great opener for a fall day.

“You can take the girl out of New England, but you can’t take New England out of the girl,” says Bea, who grew up in the central Massachusetts town of Brookfield. “I’m crazy about using herbs and spices in my cooking. That is what I’m known for here in the Midwest.”

Juniper and Apple Soup

1 T juniper berries (cracked)

4 cardamom pods

3 whole allspice

1 cinnamon stick

1 bunch fresh parsley

2 T olive oil

3 New England apples, peeled, cored and diced, such as McIntosh, Empire, and Jonathan

2 celery stalks, finely chopped

2 shallots, chopped

1 inch piece of fresh ginger root, finely chopped

4 c chicken or vegetable stock

1 c apple cider

1 c cream

3 T Armagnac or apricot brandy (optional)

salt and pepper to taste

chopped fresh parsley to garnish

Put juniper berries, cardamom pods, allspice, and cinnamon stick in a piece of cheesecloth and tie together with string. Tie the parsley together with a string.

Heat oil in a pan, add apples, celery, shallots, and ginger. Season with salt and pepper. Cover the pan, and cook gently for 10 minutes.

Add the stock and apple cider and stir well. Add the spices and parsley. Bring slowly to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer for 40 minutes. Remove the spices and parsley.

Pour the soup into a blender and purée. Then pass it through a sieve (strainer) into a clean pan. Bring to a boil and add the cream and the Armagnac/brandy. Add salt and pepper if necessary. Serve hot, garnish with fresh parsley.

Optionally, you can add cooked ham and crispy bacon, as well.

*            *            *

BECOME A FACEBOOK FRIEND of New England Apples by visiting www.newenglandapples.org.

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Honeycrisp apple (Bar Lois Weeks photo)

Honeycrisp apple (Bar Lois Weeks photo)

CORTLAND AND HONEYCRISP are two of the more popular apple varieties in New England, albeit for different reasons. The all-purpose Cortland has been a New England staple for more than a century. Honeycrisp is the region’s rising star—it has only been available commercially for the past 20 years.

Cortlands are moderately juicy, with a sweet-tart flavor that is slightly less tangy than a McIntosh. A deep, purple-red apple with yellow streaks, its white flesh browns slowly when sliced, making Cortlands ideal for salads or served with cheese. Cortlands hold their shape well when cooked, making them a good choice for pies.

Cortland apple (Bar Lois Weeks photo)

Cortland apple (Bar Lois Weeks photo)

A cross between McIntosh and Ben Davis, Cortlands were developed at the New York State Agricultural Experiment Station in Geneva, New York, in 1898.

Honeycrisp can range in color from all red to green with red striping. Their flesh is cream-colored, crisp, and very juicy. Honeycrisp have a sweet, slightly tart flavor. They are excellent for fresh eating.

Honeycrisp originally was thought to be a cross between Macoun and Honeygold, but DNA testing has since disproved this; its parentage is Keepsake crossed with an unnamed seedling. The original seedling was planted in 1961 at the University of Minnesota Horticultural Research Center, but they were not introduced commercially until 1991.

Try Cortland or Honeycrisp in the following recipe, singly or together.

Apple Pie Pops

2 apples, peeled, cored and finely chopped

1 t lemon juice

¼ c sugar

1 t apple pie spice

dash salt

1 T cornstarch

2 T water

1 unbaked pie crust

10 wooden lollipop sticks

1 egg, separated

2 t water

2 T sugar

½ t apple pie spice

Preheat oven to 375°. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and set aside.

In a medium skillet, cook apples mixed with ¼ c sugar, 1 t apple pie spice, lemon juice and salt, over medium heat for 3-5 minutes or until apples are nearly tender, stirring occasionally.

In a small bowl, combine cornstarch and 2 T water. Add slowly to apple mixture, stirring constantly until it thickens.

Roll pie crust into 12-inch circles. Cut into 3-inch rounds with cookie cutter. Press lollipop sticks firmly into center of each round. Spoon a scant tablespoon of filling into each center. You will have filling left over.

In a small bowl, whisk egg white with 1 t water until frothy. Use pastry brush or fingers to brush mixture around edges of each round of dough.

Place a second round on top. Seal edges.

In a small bowl, whisk together egg yolk with 1 t water. Brush on top of each “pie.”

In a small bowl, mix 2 T sugar and ½ t apple pie spice and sprinkle over top half of pies.

Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, until pastry is golden brown.

***

NEW APPLE RECIPES have just been published by Woman’s Day online at www.womansday.com/Articles/Food/Recipes/5-Amazing-Baked-Apple-Desserts.html.

***

JUDGING BY THE FRUIT showcased at the Eastern States Exposition (“The Big E”), this is shaping up as an exceptional year for apple quality. We’ve featured apples from across the state at our booth in the Massachusetts State Building, and they have been outstanding in appearance and flavor. Atkins Farms (Amherst), Breezelands Orchards (Warren), Carlson Orchards (Harvard), Cold Spring Orchard (Belchertown), Hamilton Orchards (New Salem), Nestrovich Fruit Farm (Granville), Pine Hill Orchards (Colrain), and Red Apple Farm (Phillipston) have all supplied beautiful, flavorful apples to the fair.

The varieties have included Cortland, Empire, Gala, Ginger Gold, Golden Delicious, Golden Supreme, Honeycrisp, Macoun, McIntosh, Red Gravenstein, Rhode Island Greening, Snow, and Suncrisp.

The Big E will continue through this Sunday, October 3.

***

IF YOU WANT TO PICK your own apples this fall, go soon. There will be plenty of apples to buy at your farmstand and in grocery stores throughout the fall and winter, but the crop will be picked sooner than normal due to the unusually hot spring and summer.

In a typical year, the New England harvest lasts through October, but this year in many places the apples will be all picked by mid-month. It will be best to visit your favorite orchard by Columbus Day Weekend if you want to be sure that there is still fruit to pick.

As always, call ahead to find out what varieties are available.

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McIntosh apple (Bar Lois Weeks photo)

McIntosh apple (Bar Lois Weeks photo)

FEW THINGS are more quintessentially New England than a McIntosh apple. Its abundant, red-and-green fruit has been filling our orchards and beguiling our senses with a heady fragrance and explosive, sweet-tart flavor for more than a century now. McIntosh today account for about two-thirds of the New England crop.

McIntosh apples are known for their “strawberry or even elderflower flavor and sweet, glistening, melting, juicy, white flesh,” write John Morgan and Alison Richards in The New Book of Apples (Ebury Press, revised edition, 2002).

“Snap a rosy McIntosh from the tree and it’s like walking with Thoreau past Walden Pond in the 1840s, as the complex play of honeyed, tart, and spicy juices trickle down your throat,” add Frank Browning and Sharon Silva in An Apple Harvest (Ten Speed Press, 1999). They describe McIntosh as “juicy, lightly crisp,” with a “blush of strawberry-raspberry aroma.”

It’s not just the McIntosh’s outstanding fragrance and distinctive flavor that we value; they have had a far-reaching effect on the nation’s apple crop. “McIntosh has lent its good genes to several well-known varieties, including Cortland, Empire, Macoun and Spartan,” writes Roger Yepsen in his beautiful book, Apples (W. W. Norton and Co., 1994).

Yepsen’s volume is small in size (5”x6-1/2”) but long on information, with descriptions of more than 90 varieties with accompanying illustrations by the author, and a wealth of background on this amazingly diverse fruit.

The McIntosh is a cross between a Fameuse (also known as a Snow apple because of its bright, white flesh) and a Detroit Red by the Canadian farmer who gave the variety its name. It was discovered around 1800, but it was not until 1870 that the son of John McIntosh introduced the apple commercially.

The main knock against Macs is that they break down in cooking, making them ideal for applesauce but mushy in a pie. Some people prefer it that way, but if you like a firmer texture in your pie without sacrificing the superior McIntosh flavor, combine several Macs with two or three varieties that hold their shape better, such as Cortland, Ida Red, Northern Spy.

McIntosh apples also require careful handling, as they bruise easily and lose their crispness more quickly than some varieties, if not kept cold. At their peak flavor fresh off the tree, properly handled McIntosh in controlled atmosphere (“CA”) storage and then home in your refrigerator can be enjoyed throughout the year.

If you want fresh Macs, don’t delay this autumn; with the earlier-than-usual crop McIntosh may be done being harvested by mid-October rather than at the end of the month. As always, call your orchard ahead of time to see what varieties are available for sale or for picking.

Here’s a fabulous recipe featuring McIntosh for Apple Squares, passed down three generations by Margaret Richardson of Holden, Massachusetts. Two ingredients make it stand out: cornflakes, which are added to the filling to retain the McIntosh’s juices and give the squares texture, and a few drops of almond extract, in the icing.

For a healthier version, use half whole wheat flour, reduce sugar to ¾ cup, reduce butter to 3/8 cup and add ½ cup canola oil.

New England Apple Squares  

2-1/2 c flour

1 c butter

1 egg yolk

Milk

4-6 McIntosh or other New England apples, peeled, cored and sliced

1 c cornflakes

1 c sugar

1 t cinnamon

1 c. confectioner’s sugar

dash of almond extract

Beat egg yolk in measuring cup and add enough milk to make 2/3 c liquid. Cut butter into flour and salt. Mix wet and dry ingredients together into a dough.

Roll out half the dough so that it fills the bottom and sides of a 15-1/2” cook sheet. Sprinkle with cornflakes. Top with apples. Combine sugar and cinnamon and sprinkle over apples.

Roll out other half of dough and place on top of apples. Seal edges. Cut holes in top to let steam escape. Bake at 375° for 50-60 minutes, until crust is nicely browned.

Mix confectioner’s sugar with 3-4 t milk and almond extract. Drizzle over warm squares.

For additional apple recipes or to learn more about New England varieties, visit http://www.newenglandapples.org/.

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New England apple crisp (Bar Lois Weeks photo)

New England apple crisp (Bar Lois Weeks photo)

A FRESH APPLE PIE is a thing of beauty, delicious, substantial and versatile — elegant enough for a dinner party, familiar enough for breakfast the next morning. When you don’t have time to roll out a flaky crust to encircle your gently spiced apple filling, though, apple crisp is the next best thing. (Follow a perfect pie crust for tips when you do have time to make that pie.)
Apple crisp has all the good apple stuff that goes into a pie, with a rich, crunchy topping. There are many variations, such as adding other fruits like cranberries, raisins, or pears, or in the topping (one person recently told us she uses graham crackers for her crisp, and we can’t wait to try it). If you have a good apple crisp recipe, we’d love you to send it along.
Here is one of our favorites, passed down through the generations from Lois Castell Browns. We’ve added whole wheat flour to make it healthier than the original. Mix and match apples for maximum flavor. We recently used seven varieties in this recipe: Duchess of Oldenburg, Ginger Gold, Honeycrisp, PaulaRed, Rambo, Red Gravenstein, and Zestar. It was so good it exposed apple crisp’s one, great weakness: it doesn’t last.

Apple Crisp (serves 6)

6 New England apples, like Northern Spy, McIntosh, or Macoun
1 T lemon juice
1 t cinnamon
1/4 t nutmeg
1/2 t salt

Topping:
3/4 c whole wheat flour
1/4 c old-fashioned oats
1/4 c brown sugar or 1/3 c maple syrup
5 T butter

Preheat oven to 350˚. Core and slice apples into a buttered 8” square pan. Sprinkle lemon juice and spices over the apples.
Combine topping ingredients to cover the apples.
Bake for 45 minutes or until apples have softened.

WE’LL BE SELLING APPLE CRISP, personal-size apple pies, apple pie pockets, fresh apple cider, and cider donuts, and fresh-picked apples from Massachusetts orchards in the Massachusetts State Building at the Eastern States Exposition (“The Big E”). It all begins this Friday, September 17, and continues daily through Sunday, October 3, from 10 a.m. until 9 p.m.

We’ll also be handing out copies of our 2010 brochure/poster, New England Apples, and recipe cards. If you are not out in the orchard, come by our booth and say hello.

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